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Technical Restore Awning Color

ARSI red Line
"How Restore Color to Faded Awnings"


There are several factors to take into consideration before starting any cleaning or sealing project. The next few items are of great importance but, unfortunately, often times are forgotten. So, REVIEW THESE ITEMS OFTEN AND ESPECIALLY BEFORE YOU START EACH JOB. "Get off on the right foot" and ensure that the project will be under your control instead of it controlling you.

1. SAFETY must come first; not only for the personnel on the job but also for the pedestrians and surrounding property. THINK AHEAD! Are pedestrians likely to be in the area? Will other people need access while the work is going on? Are ladders going to be needed? Are cars parked to close? What about shrubbery, trees and the general surroundings around the work area?

2. Once safety has been established and planned for, try to identify the industrial fabric type(s) that you will be working on. At the minimum, distinguish it as a vinyl or an open weave fabric. Knowing the exact material type can save you both time and money. Some fabric manufactures have warranties that must be maintained or they are voided. Over-cleaning a fabric can invalidate the warranty and/or shorten the life of the fabric.

3. Next, examine the fabric's physical condition . Look close to see the bindings , seams, tie downs, etc. Look for flaws or damaged areas. Make sure the fabric is strong enough to be worked on without deteriorating.

4. If the material passes these inspections, you should then look for areas of staining. Attempt to identify the type of stain so as you begin to clean you can work it easily without putting unnecessary strain on the

5. Keep in mind that some owners in reality don't care anything about the fabric except for the final look and appearance. They don't care what it takes to acquire a "look". Don't let this pressure steer you into accidentally invalidating a warranty. Possibly, at times like these, you will be required to perform super strong cleaning, scrubbing, etc. These procedures may be out of the realm of the material's warranty and/or its structural integrity or design. If this type situation arises, simply inform the owner that in order to perform the work on the material to his/her standards, you will need a signed waiver from them. This waiver should be an attestant to the fact that you, as a professional, have informed themof the potential problems involved and that they are releasing you from any liabilities, claims, or problems that may arise.    
• Soft bristled brushes
• Soft rectangular paint pads ( 1/4 thick)
• Lint free 3/16 and 3/8 inch nap roller sleeve (not lamb's wool)
• Paint roller
• Paint tray and grid
• Spray equipment (see SPRAY METHOD section)
• Extension poles
• Ladders and/or scaffolding to reach work area.
• Clean-up accessories (towels, denatured alcohol, sandpaper, soap and water)

Coating or Resurfacing can be explained as the addition of a thin layer (coating) to the surface of vinyl or open weave fabric to :
1. Help protect the material from degrading caused by environmental conditions.
2. Restore the appearance of faded and worn fabric material by replacing lost color.    
3. Change it's color.
4. Increase the life of the material.
Properly done, coating or resurfacing can rejuvenate a material to bring about a longer life span of the fabric. It can also change the appearance of a fabric by changing the color of the material, if so desired. A good example of this would be if a restaurant went out of business or was taken over by new owners. The new owners might want to give the restaurant a new look by changing the color of the awnings. If the fabric on the awnings is structurally intact they can be coated or resurfaced (topside only) to a different color and a 40 to 50 per cent savings can be realized versus recovering the frames with new material.

Coating or resurfacing of the fabric material (vinyl or open weave) should not take place when the fabric is not structurally sound. For example if it was dry rotted, missing layers, scrim deterioration, chipping, or peeling. Coating or resurfacing might mask these symptoms and look pretty, but coating or resurfacing tissue paper thin industrial fabric will still leave tissue thin fabric.

NOTE:  Our Coating ompounds are NOT paint. Paints have about 35% solids and latex adhesives to glue them to a stiff surface, like a wall. Coating compounds are 65-75% solids and have a flexible vinyl adhesive. This adhesives will stretch with the expansion and contraction of the awning material with temperature changes. Paints with a letex adehsive can not do this more than 1- 2 weather seasons. They will gradually lose their bonding and peel off like dead skin. You will then have a very unhappy client.
ARSI awning coloring 1    ARSI awning coloring 2
ARSI awning coloring 3    ARSI awning coloring 4
"How to Select the best Awning Paint / Coating Compounds."


Selecting the correct type of surface coating for the job will make the task not only easier but will give the fabric a positive visual enhancement for years to come. To do this it is necessary to understand precisely what your client is asking you to do in relationship to the exact fabric you will be working on.

This is the simplest of the coatings. CLEAR-COAT is a CLEAR, HIGH GLOSS, and COLORLESS coating. It is used to
protect what ever it is applied to. It can impart additional structural integrity to older brittle fabrics as well as protect new materials from harsh environments. In both cases it will leave a HIGH GLOSS LOOK.                                          

Perma-Seal COLOR-COAT                                    
This coating is simply a mixture of color molecules in a special binding adhesive complex. It has next to no visual turbidity or hiding capabilities.You are just about applying pure colors. This means that you can colorize BACK-LIT materials as well as non-translucent materials. This product also lets the user turn new white back-lit into just about any color. The awning could be manufactured first, then colorized before installation. Because COLOR-COAT has no "Hiding" capabilities stains and fabric flaws can show through this coating. It should not be used for color changes on BACK-LIT materials because when the lights are turned on all colors will be blended together visually. For instance if the original material was yellow and you COLOR-COATED it blue, when the lights were turned on the awning would bee a shade of green. Yellow & Blue make Green.

Perma-Seal RESURFACING COMPOUND                     
Our original coating, which is used for color restoration of damaged fabrics that have permanent stains, fading, or for color changes. This product comes in gloss or satin finish and is excellent for covering visually damaged fabrics because it has good " hiding" capabilities.


The successful steps to coating and resurfacing are:
1. The material must be as clean as possible. The proper ARSI CLEANER(S) should be used to ensure that as much dirt, mildew, mold, etc. is removed for proper bonding purposes. Remember to thoroughly rinse off all cleaning residues from the fabric.
2. Any repairs should be done before coating or resurfacing application.
3. At least two coats of Coating or Resurfacing Compound should be applied with proper curing times between coats.
4. Application of an ARSI Universal Vinyl Sealer 12 to assist the coating or resurfacing compound through the initial curing stages and help prevent pollution from attacking the compounds after curing.

There are a lot of things to take into consideration when coating is going to be performed. Taking care of these details in advance will keep the project flowing smoothly and easily. Forgetting one or more of these details can cost you not only time and money but a quality job. Some of these details involve:

1. Material Identification - Knowing the exact fabric will let you order the correct ARSII Compounds. Miss matching can create the wrong color effect so more coats have to be applied.
2. Location- Is the industrial fabric easily accessible? Are ladders and scaffolding going to be needed? It is seldom that you will take down the material to resurface it unless it is a tent.
3. Material Quality- What is the age of the fabric? Does it have good tensile strength? Is it too far deteriorated to consider coating? Are the seams in good condition with all the stitching in place?
4. Repairs- If rips, tears or other problems are evident they must be fixed before coating can take place.
5. Cleaning- The industrial fabric must be clean of all foreign matter (dirt & stains) before coating can take place. ARSI Coatings will not bond properly to the surface if it is not clean. Read the Cleaning & Sealing manual to refresh yourself on cleaning techniques for specific fabric types.
6. Color changes- is the surface going to have a different color applied to it or is the original color going to be reproduced? If a color change is going to take place maybe a primer should be used to block out the existing color so fewer coats have to applied to achieve the desired look. This is especially true for open weave fabrics.
7. Opacity- Is the material a back-lit or is it opaque?
8. Graphics- Are there going to be decals or lettering put on after the coating or resurfacing is done?
9. Technique- What type of application technique will best fit the particular project (brush, pad, roller, or spray application)?
10. Ordering- ARSI Coatings are an exact product. It is color tinted to the exact volume ordered. So know the amount you need for the job and order accordingly.
11. Weather- there must be sufficient time for drying of the compound to take place.
12. Surface Verification- Perma-Seal CLEAR-COAT, COLOR-COAT, and RESURFACING COMPOUND can bond to a lot of different substrates from wood to metal, cement, painted surfaces, stucco, vinyl, acryilic fibers, and cotton blends. They do NOT bond to dirty, oily, or plastic surfaces. Their application to rubber (coated) fabrics or surfaces, PVC, HDPE plastics, nylon, dacron, and polyester should be avoided. As one can see from the previously mentioned conditions, there is more to
coating and resurfacing than pulling up to the work site and sloshing some color on a fabric. Applying a coating can be very unforgiving for those that do not take all details into consideration. On the other hand, it can be very rewarding to step back at the end of the day and see a bright new awning or tent where earlier stood a faded and drab piece of fabric.
"How to Color an Awning "

1. Brush Method- Used for small areas only.
2. Pad Method- Easiest method to use (for beginners) for large areas of fabrics.
3. Roller Method-Used as a two person team approach to coat fabric.
4. Spray Method- Depending on the method used, can produce the highest quality results on both opaque and translucent fabrics.

All of these methods should be studied and practiced. There will be some jobs where more than one technique or method well have to be used to produce the desired results. Also equipment breakdowns might make alternate methods necessary to finish the coating or resurfacing. As you can see from the chart below application methods and techniques yield various quality results. Coating will never reach 100 % perfect finish, for only the factory material can do this. But with practice near perfect finishes can be obtained.                                                                       


Before contracting your first resurfacing job there is one thing that must be done to insure professional results

You are not working with a paint that is 65% water! ARSI coating compounds have 15% water. The rest of the formulation is made up of adhesive resins and color pigments. Getting a coating or resurfacing compound to stay in one place on clean slippery vinyl is not the same as throwing paint on a porous wallboard. To practice all the techniques economically purchase a gallon of inexpensive interior paint for $7.98 and master the method on cardboard. When your are happy with the results, move on to some tacked up vinyl scraps (or a cheap vinyl window shade) that you have obtained. All of the methods should be mastered this way. Then when you pull up to the job site you will know what to do and that all your equipment is functioning properly. When dry the coating compounds do not come off very easy if at all!

BRUSH METHOD                                              
1. Very soft bristled brushes.                                                                            
2. Ladders or scaffolding as necessary to reach the material.

Procedure Steps :
1. Make sure all equipment is clean and operational.
2. Stir the ARSH Coating to make sure no settling of any of the colorant pigments has taken place.
3. With a brush apply thin even amounts of compound to the surface. Use vertical brush strokes to prevent sags and drips. Thin coats will dry faster and allow for a more uniform surface result.
4. Never start applying another coat of an ARSII Coating until the previous coat is dry. If the surface of the previous coat is dry to the touch and does not have a loose film effect when touched the next coat may be applied.
5. Apply sufficient coats of compound until the desired effect has been achieved.
6. Clean up with warm soap and water.

This is the easiest, but most labor intensive method of applying an ARSICoating and requires the least amount of equipment. It cannot be used for back-lit awnings due to the fact that the brush strokes will be seen upon
illumination at night. This method also takes a considerable amount of time to resurface large areas while at the same time produces the lowest quality of resurfacing. This method should therefore be used primarily for small areas (binding or trim) or areas that because of their shape or location cannot be done using another technique.

PAD METHOD                                             
1. Soft rectangular paint pads of various sizes (< 1/4 inch bristles)
2. Paint pad tray.
3. Ladders or scaffolding as necessary to reach to the job.

Procedure Steps :
1. Make sure all equipment is clean and operational.
2. Stir the ARSII Coating to make sure no settling of any of the colorant pigments has taken place .                                     
3. Fill the paint pad tray with the ARSII Coating. On some jobs it might be easier to use a lined roller tray (lined with aluminum foil). This will make clean-up faster when you are finished. You only have to remove the foil from the tray. NOTE: If compound skims over or gets lumpy change the liner.
4. Dip the paint pad into the coating to "load " the pad. Make sure the compound is uniform across the pad and that the sides of the pad are not flowing with excess compound. Remove excess coating compound from the pad. Don't allow pad build up with dried compound on the sides. This can lead to streaks forming during application of the coating.
5. Start by placing the pad on the fabric at the furthest point from you and pull towards you. Use a vertical stroke motion down towards you. Don't do "V" or "W" patterns. These will cause overloading of the surface and drips and runs to form. If you run low on compound as you perform the stroke reload the pad and continue the stroke. When the stroke path is complete go back to the top and do a uniform pass over the whole stroke area. This will help prevent overlapping and unify the stroke path.                                                              
6. Never allow the stroke path you are currently working or the previous one to dry while you are working on it.                    
7. Place your second stroke path beside the previous one. When possible take your pad and go up to the top and feather in the two strokes by running your pad over the "joint" area between the two strokes.            
8.   Continue this method until completed.
9. Clean up with warm soap and water. This application technique can be modified for doing stripes. These stripes should be at least six inches wide. Stripes smaller than six inches will be very tedious. The end result being a weak stripe produced. Remember a 6 x 4 inch pad can be used as a 4 x 6 inch pad when turned 90 degrees. Always use a pad smaller than the stripe and concentrate on one edge of the stripe then do the other edge.

ROLLER METHOD                                             
1. Lint free 3/16 inch nap good quality paint roller sleeve.
2. Lint free 3/8 inch nap good quality paint roller sleeve.
3. Roller paint tray (with liner or aluminum foil)
4. Ladders or scaffolding as necessary to reach the work area.

Procedure Steps :
1. Make sure all equipment is clean and operational.
2. Stir the ARSI Coating to make sure no settling of any of the colorant pigments has taken place.
3. Load the 3/8 inch sleeve roller (do not use lambs wool) with coating compound.
4. Start at the top of the fabric and slowly roll the compound onto the surface. This first step is to place compound as uniform as possible on the fabric. A straight up and down motion in the stroke path is suggested. Don't make "V" or "W" paths as this motion will produce trails of excess compound from the edge of the roller.ARSI awning colorrestoration
5. Load the 3/16 inch nap roller with the least amount of compound possible. This is done only to get the nap "wet" so it will not absorb compound from the fabric.
6. Use the 3/16 inch nap roller to roll the surface that the compound has already been applied to with the 3/8 inch nap roller. This action will remove any "TRAILS" left behind by the 3/8 inch nap roller. Again use straight up and down stroke paths as much as possible.                    
7. Always work in a team action of one roller applying and the second roller smoothing the finish of the compound. If the 3/16 nap roller gets too much compound on it, wipe it off on the paint tray or get a new roller.
8. Never allow the 3/8 nap roller's work area to dry before it has been worked with the short nap roller.
9. Don't splatter and sling coating compound from the roller being used too fast. Use appropriate roller shields if needed. THE MORE YOU SPLATTER, THE MORE YOU CLEAN UP!
10. On really large work areas it might be easier if the person applying the compound used an airless paint roller. Make sure the equipment is compatible with the viscosity of the compound.ARSI awning coloring
11. Based on the actual work area it should be realized that the roller   method will not reach all parts of the surface. At the top of the awning trim work might have to be done with a pad or brush for 2 inches. This is the average distance the roller can't reach without touching the building.
12. Valances will be very hard to roll, so roll to a seam or edge point and paint pad from there. This way there will be no overlapping problems visible when the area is dry.
13. Clean up with warm soap and water.

The roller technique will give excellent results when done properly. Remember never let the work area dry until the second roller has smoothed the finish. This method is primarily for opaque materials, but if practiced to a high degree of quality it could be used for some styles of back-lit awnings. With enough practice this method can be simplified to using only the shorter nap roller for smaller areas.

SPRAY METHOD                                   
1. Spray equipment (electric airless, pump airless, air compressor, HVLP)
2. Ladders or scaffolding as necessary to reach the work area.                         
Procedure Steps :
1. Make sure all equipment is clean and operational.
2. Stir the ARSII Coating to make sure no settling of any of the colorant pigments has taken place .
3. Make sure you have read the operations manual for your exact spray equipment and that you have practiced with it before attempting a contract job.
4. Filter the coating compound through a paint strainer net to make sure there is no clumping. This is especially needed if the compound has been used before and might have become filmy on the surface.
5. Hold the spray gun 10 to 12 inches (based on your exact model) from the surface of the fabric making sure you keep the spray gun perpendicular to the surface at all times.ARSI awningspray painting
6. Make sure your hoses and lines do not come into contact with the fabric as you work. It can be very upsetting to look over your shoulder to see the newly sprayed surface scratched by the hose or lines.
7. Do not continually run the spray pattern back and forth with the trigger on. This will cause overloading of the surface with uneven amounts of coating compound being applied. Put the spray gun where you want it. Pull the trigger and with a steady even stroke move your arm across the surface. At the end of the stroke release the trigger, stopping the spray.
7. When spraying it is important not to develop a sloppy wrist. Keep it straight and firm with the fore-arm. Move the spray gun with upper-arm motion. This will keep a more uniform spray pattern and prevent over deposits of the ARSI Coating. Adjust the material feed of the product to the spray gun so you are applying it at a comfortable pace for you. Don't let the volume of coating compound spraying out, control you. If you find yourself having to move the gun very slow or very fastso the right amount of compound is reaching the area, then stop and adjust the gun's spray volume to the correct level.
8. Overlap each stroke by 30 to 40 %. The overlap will insure a coating that is uniform across the work surface. A good way to achieve the overlap is to point the spray gun at the edge of the last stroke pass.
9. Choose uniform stopping places before starting to spray. These stopping places can be seam lines, binding areas, or edges. By stopping at uniform places there will be less likely a chance for unsightly overlap streaks to show when the surface has dried. This is especially true for BACK-LITS.
10. Try to keep the density of the compound on the surface uniform. On BACK-LIT awnings don't try to go over spots after they have dried as this will lead to a splotchy look when the lights are turned on.
11. Wash your equipment with warm soap and water as soon as you are finished. Don't let the coating compound dry in the hoses or spray gun. This will cause bits of dried material to come off the walls and intoyour next ARSI Coating color as it passes through the equipment.

ALLIGATORING- This is a final effect that is caused by applying too heavy of a coat at a time or by applying one coat on another before the first coat is dry. This causes a film to form on the surface trapping the wet compound below. As the film dries faster and faster it wants to shrink but can't because of the wet compound below it. So it splits and forms cracks just like alligator skin. To avoid this condition apply thin coats and make sure the previous coat is dry. The effect of alligatoring can be multiplied by hot weather which causes faster drying times. Some times an awning will get so hot, that the underside should be cooled with water to help lower the temperature, or wait for a better temperature for coating or resurfacing.

BACK-LITS- Translucent materials pose certain problems if they are to remain back-lits. For proper translucency to be maintained after coating, the material cannot have any blotches or blemishes. When they are illuminated any ARSI back lit awningblotches or blemishes will still be visible when the new transparent coats of Perma-Seal COLOR-COAT have been applied. Back-Lits have to remain the same color. Otherwise if you apply a yellow to a blue back-lit the final color at night when the lights are turned on will be a shade of green. If the material is still structurally strong but irregular in color, the only thing possible would be to turn it into an opaque material with a primer base and then color it with Resurfacing Compound.

BLEED THROUGH- This can be a problem when coating open weave fabrics. The wet compound wants to penetrate through the fabric and come out the underside. This will be a big visual eyesore if a color change is taking place on the awning or tent. To remedy this situation apply Universal Fabric Sealer 3 to the fabric and let it dry overnight. This will restore the fabric's barrier level that is missing and help prevent the coating from seeping through.

CLEAN-UP- Perma-Seal CLEAR-COAT, COLOR-COAT, and RESURFACING COMPOUND are in a water medium and as long as they are wet can be removed with warm water and Universal VINYL, FABRIC, or MAINTENANCE CLEANER Once the compound has dried is can be next to impossible to remove because the adhesives have cross-linked with the surface and are highly impervious to most solvents and paint removers. Keep in mind it is labor intensive to remove dry coatings and strong solvent solutions will harm most fabric types.

COLOR CHANGES- A color change is simply the change of a certain color fabric to another color. To best enhance this change and produce a true color for the client it is sometimes easier to put a base primer color on first. This primer color should be either ultra pure white or penguin gray. Using these colors as a primer will preclude you from having to put 4 or       more coats of the color requested by the client to achieve correct color hue. If you are going from a dark color (burgundy) to a light color (yellow) use ultra pure white. If you are going from a bright color (red) to a deep color (navy blue) use the penguin gray as the base coat. Using these base coat colors will enhance the final out come and let you use less Coating or Resurfacing Compound.

COLOR HUES- Some times the compound will look different than the color that was ordered. This is because in the liquid state the colors are not dense enough to show their true hues. If in doubt of the color simply put a drop of stirred compound on a white card and dry it with a blow dryer. The final dry coating should be the true color ordered.

COLOR MATCHING- All colors are formulated based upon being viewed on a pure white background. This testing produces the truest and most reproducible color. If a color swatch is sent to the lab for reproduction they match the color by applying the newly formulated color to white sample strip. Always send in a color sample swatch hi it's best form. Clean it, so the lab can match the color easier.

CRATERING- A condition that takes place after a coating has been applied where little pinholes "CRATERS" are formed in the coating. This is caused by:                                                                               
A. Applying too thin of a coating layer. As the layer dries there is not enough resin to support the coating uniformly so it pulls away from itself forming craters.                                                      
B. Dirt and dust can create insoluble areas where the coating might not be able to bond. Upon drying, the coating pulls away from the debris.
C. Grease, oil, and sealants left behind from improper cleaning will prevent the coatings from taking proper hold.

CURING TIME- The product is cured when it is dry to the touch and does not have a film floating on the surface. A coat should be applied thin enough so it dries uniform through-out the depth of the coat. It is an indication that you are applying too heavy of a coat of compound if a film is present on the surface and there is liquid compound below it. Before applying more coats of compound the underlying coat must be dry. If it is not dry, sagging and lift off of the product can take place. The surface can only support so much wet compound before gravity will take over and cause a run or sag.

DRIPS and RUNS- When still wet, drips and runs on the fabric surface can be feathered in by padding or rolling over them. If you are spraying sometimes you can lift off the small ones with a clean towel. If you cannot, let them dry totally. Once dry you can sand them off with fine grit sand paper (#300 -#350 emery is best). If there is a lot of sanding to do try using a variable speed disk sander with a real slow speed, at a 45 degree angle. Be sure not to sand through the coats and onto the fabric.

DRYING STAGES- These coatings are not paints and do not perform like them. This can lead the first time user to think something has gone wrong. When fist applied the coating layer will look almost uniform and smooth. After drying starts, the layer will show signs of looking like an orange peel, all bumpy. This is the water leaving the coating and causing the surface to collapse. It collapses at different rates along the surface, thus causing a bumpy look. The more water that leaves the coating the smoother the layer will become. In the last stages of drying you will notice that the surface has gone to a more uniform smooth look. When complete curing has taken place, the entire surface will be smooth (with proper application) and no coating smell will be present.

FILTERING- If you are using previously opened Coating or Resurfacing Compound be sure to filter it through painters mesh before using it. This is to prevent any bits of coating that might have hardened from ruining your work by allowing little chips and flakes onto the new surface. These little chips can also play havoc with spray equipment.                               

GRAPHICS- Make sure any graphics are applied before any Vinyl Sealer is applied to the coating compound. Graphics will not adhere to the Vinyl Sealer.                                                                          

HUMIDITY- ARSI Coatings and Resurfacing Compounds are not designed to be diluted by more than 5%(with water). Humidity from the air- can settle on a cooler awning or tent (as condensation) and with drastic results dilute the compound 50%. Think of it, you are putting a layer of compound 1 to 2 mils thick on a vinyl material and there are 2 mils of humidity condensate on the vinyl. This means the compound has been diluted by "mother nature" 50%. This dilution will cause the compound to sag and run off the fabric. To keep this from happening you have to work in non-humid conditions.
You can do this by :
A. Work in the daytime.
B. Don't coat on humid days if the temperature is going to drop and cause condensation.
C. Avoid coating at night.
D. Take the fabric structure down and bring it inside to work on.
E. Use a large fan to blow a slight breeze over the fabric.
F. Encase the fabric structure in a plastic tent so the condensate lands on the tent and not the coated fabric.
G. Use a nonflammable heat source to help maintain daytime temperatures under the fabric structure. In reality all you have to do is maintain a temperature ensuring the fabric is warmer than the current temperature and condensation will never accumulate on the fabric. Remember heat rises and will go to the top of the area it is trapped in. The adding of plastic side curtains (clamped to the edge) to the awning (temporarily) can increase the heat pocket size.

OVER SPRAY- The condition where coating does not land where you want it. This could be caused by sloppy technique or the wind. OVER SPRAY when dry will be a real clean-up problem. To prevent this from happening:
A. Check the wind direction.
B. Mask off areas, with tape and craft paper that are not to be coated.
C. Move vehicles from the area.
D. Cover objects that cannot be move with drop cloths .
E. Keep sidewalks and buildings wet with water while spraying and rinse them thoroughly when done.
F. Don't spray on windy days.

PAINT- This is a low adhesive (usually 35% solids ) product designed for houses and buildings. The adhesive used in most paints is not for use on vinyl or acrylic fiber open weaves. Some paints might go on these materials and look nice for a time but they will end up peeling , fading, or chipping on the surface because they cannot adhere to it for a long period of time. You will come across awnings and tents that people before you have painted. These cannot be resurfaced unless they are stripped of all paint. ARSI Coatingsand Resurfacing Compounds need a firm base to adhere to. The solids level of the average tinted ARSI compound is 75%. These coating adhesives are designed especially for vinyl and acrylic surfaces. The ARSI Coating and Resurfacing Compounds are also designed to fight against acid rain, fuel pollution, weathering effects, eroding effects, and color fade due to U.V. light radiation.                                                             

PINHOLES- These are small holes in the fabric that water can be forced through in a rain storm. If they are still very small the ARSI Coatings and Resurfacing Compounds can seal them. ARS1I Coating Products should not be thought of as a universal patching solution for holes or as a substance to bridge the gaps in fabrics.

SEALING- After the compound is dry to the touch and thoroughly cured apply vinyl sealer to the new surface. This will help keep future dirt build up and pollution problems to a minimum. It is also a prerequisite to any warranty on the coating or resurfacing compound.

STRIPES- Thin stripes should be applied with colored tape just like a graphic. Stripes six inches or wider can be applied with a pad and a steady hand. If at all possible, use a seam as an edge point for the stripe line, to be lined up against. Some stripes run seam to seam and therefor have two edge points for the pad to use. Run the pad stroke the way the stripe runs. When stripes are to be covered totally use a primer base coat of Resurfacing Compound to block them out.

SURFACES- Perma-Seal CLEAR-COAT, COLOR-COAT, and RESURFACING COMPOUND were developed to bond to many different substrates including wood, metal, cement, painted surfaces, stucco, vinyl, acrylic fibers, and cotton blends. They will NOT bond to dirty, oily, or plastic surfaces. Application to rubber fabrics(coated), PVC, HDPE plastics, nylon, dacron, and polyester should be not be attempted.

TRIMMING- On most awnings, some border trim work will have to be done in hard to reach places where your major ARSI awning coloring trimapplication method cannot reach. Simply use a small brush or pad to coat these areas and make sure these areas are only as small as necessary. If you are rolling a surface, use a pad to apply coating compound 2 inches from the edge out. This is the area wear the roller cannot reach. Do the trim work first if possible and blend them in with your main method.

VALANCE- When coating this area of the awning, based on it's design, you might find it easier to pad the area instead of rolling it. Spraying can be done but the OVER SPRAY hazards could make clean-up a lengthy process.

VISCOSITY- The Coating and Resurfacing Compounds may have different viscosities based on their exact formulation. You might also notice that different colors can produce different viscosities. This is due to the amount of tints added to produce the desired color. Some deep true colors can take up to 16 ounces of tint per gallon to produce the correct color.
The information contained in this technical brief is intended for use with Awning Rejuvenation Systems products. Awning Rejuvenation Systems International does not assume, and therefore disclaims, any liability to to any party for any loss or damages caused by any errors or omissions in this technical brief, whether or not such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause. This publication may not be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Awning Rejuvanition Systems International, Inc.

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