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Tech. Cloth Clean Seal
"How to Clean and Seal a Cloth or Canvas Awning"
BEFORE YOU START
There are several factors to take into consideration before starting any cleaning or sealing project. The next few items are of great importance. So, REVIEW THESE ITEMS OFTEN AND ESPECIALLY BEFORE YOU START EACH JOB, and ensure that the project will be under your control instead of it controlling you.
1. SAFETY must come first; not only for the personnel on the job but also for the pedestrians and surrounding property. Are pedestrians likely to be in the area? Will other people need access while the work is going on? Are ladders going to be needed? Are cars parked too close? What about shrubbery, trees and the general surroundings around the work area?
2. Try to identify the industrial fabric type(s) that you will be working on. Distinguish it as a vinyl or an open weave fabric. Knowing the exact material type can save you both time and money. Some fabric manufactures have warranties that must be maintained or they are voided. Over-cleaning a fabric can invalidate the warranty and/or shorten the life of the fabric.
3. Next, examine the awning's condition . Look close at the bindings, seams, tie downs, etc. Look for flaws or damaged areas. Make sure the fabric is strong enough to be worked on without deteriorating.
4. If the material passes inspection, you should then look for staining.. Attempt to identify the type of stain so you can work it easily without putting strain on the
fabric.
5. Keep in mind that some owners don't care anything about the fabric except for the final appearance. They don't care what it takes to acquire a "look". Don't let this steer you into accidentally invalidating a warranty. Possibly, you will be required to perform super strong cleaning, scrubbing, etc. These procedures may be out of the realm of the material's warranty and/or its structural integrity or design. If this type situation arises, simply inform the owner that in order to perform the work on the material to his/her standards, you will need a signed waiver from them. This waiver should be an attestant to the fact that you, as a professional, have informed them of the potential problems involved and that they are releasing you from any liabilities, claims, or problems that may arise.
How to product spot test an awning?
ALWAYS spot test in an inconspicuous area of the material before using any product an industrial fabric. To spot test material, you will need to have an eyedropper, a medium bristle toothbrush, and a small section of white scrub pad. You will also need clean towels and a spray bottle with water. Dependent upon installation, you may need to use a ladder to reach the surface. Be sure to choose an inconspicuous spot that is weathered! Choosing a spot where the finish is intact (like underneath or on a vertical surface) will not yield correct results as the top coat or finish will still be intact. However, on a weathered area or part, the finish will probably be breached due to natural erosion.Use the following guidelines for the respective materials:
OPEN WEAVE FABRICS - When spot testing STAIN MAGIC, RELEASE, or chlorine bleach, use an eyedropper to apply several drops of the cleaner solution that has been supplemented with STAIN MAGIC or chlorine bleach. Allow to sit for 10 minutes and rinse with water. If the color changes or lightens, discontinue the testing because the color is not "fast" to the fabric. STAIN MAGIC, RELEASE, and/or chlorine bleach should not be used. CLEANERS and SEALERS - Always spot test all chemical products on unknown fabrics. This also means fabrics that show environmental wear and tear. As a fabric ages it's integrity can start to decline. This means spot testing cleaning solution dilutions as well as sealer behaviors before starting a job.
Can I use bleach to clean an awning?
In some situations, chlorine bleach can be a miracle worker. HOWEVER, besides being non-biodegradable, bleach also adds too much risk into premature material failure. Your goal should be working towards a life long care and maintenance program for the material; not in damaging or destroying it.
Here are a few of the problems that the use of chlorine bleach can cause:
1. It can cause the weakening and deterioration of the fibers in cotton or cotton blended thread. This will lead to failure of the seams and bindings.
2. It can strip the color from cotton dyed fabric and bindings.
3. It can cause vinyl to break down..Chlorine bleach affects plasticizer migration and can ruin certain open weave and vinyl fabric finishes.
4. It may reduce or even remove the fire retardency of the fabric.
5. It may damage the fibers in the scrim. Minute pinholes may let the bleach inside. This is one of the reasons "wicking" occurs.
Because of the tremendous potential for damage, do not use bleach in everyday cleaning procedures. There are some materials such as Sunbrella that suggest using it; however, you may not know if the material or the binding was stitched with cotton threads.
There may come times when there will be no other way to clean the fabric except to use bleach. If you opt to do this, you will be voiding the warranty of the material and causing potential damage to it. If there is a customer involved, he should be made fully aware of the hazards before any cleaning takes place and be required to sign a waiver of liability. If you must use bleach, always spot test first!
Start with 4 ounces bleach per gallon of Universal VINYL, FABRIC, or MAINTENANCE CLEANER. Soak/saturate the material and allow the bleach to work for 5 - 10 minutes. If the material is hot and begins to dry, spritz it with water; but only enough to wet it. Using a soft to medium bristled brush, scrub the affected areas after the solution has had time to work..Always follow your scrubbing with a thorough water rinse.
"How to Clean Delicate Awning Fabrics"
You will notice that there are different industrial fabrics in all types of uses. Awnings, tents, tarps, truck covers, etc. are made with strong vinyl or fabric materials. At the other end of the scale are the delicate and sensitive fabrics. These are usually lighter and more flexible materials that go into the making of balloons, banners, signs, coated fabric/vinyl, color fast materials, and flags.Too strong a cleaning solution on these materials can shorten their life span or cause color degradation. SAFE WASH was developed for these delicate materials. It is a strong gentle water soluble cleaner that emulsifies dirt and soil with a gentle, biodegradable, safe pH 7 action.
Apply SAFE WASH to dry material. Let the cleaner stand for a few minutes to loosen the dirt and soil. If scrubbing is necessary, use a soft sponge or soft bristle brush providing the material allows it. Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the surface. Rinse with water after cleaning. If the material has black mold or mildew on the surface, STAIN MAGIC should be dissolved into the SAFE WASH solution to provide the additional cleaning power.
NOTE: SAFE WASH was designed for delicate and sensitive materials in order to lessen the potential harmful effects sometimes associated with cleaning. Keep in mind, while cleaning delicate and sensitive fabrics, they can still be harmed by aggressive mechanical actions such as over scrubbing, hard brushes, etc.
"How to Clean Cloth or Canvas Awnings"
ALWAYS SPOT TEST THE MATERIAL FOR COLOR FASTNESS BEFORE CLEANING.
With open weave fabrics, the lack of regular cleaning allows pollutants to stain into the fabric. Water repellency breakdown will also usually occur dependent upon the age of the material. In normal full time outdoor conditions, this will usually take place at about the age of two to four years. It will occur only on the top surface of the fabric and might not be noticeable from underneath. Re-establishing water repellency is a standard procedure on older, non-maintained fabrics. By the time the open weave fabric is four years old, even cleaning with plain soap and water will still remove most of the water repellent. Sometimes in some cases some materials will leak from the time they are installed. For bad stains in fabrics, Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER 
will do the job. Owing to its concentrated formula, in the event you use it undiluted (or in a concentration higher than 2:1) it is recommended that after you clean, the fabric be resealed if it is older than 3 years. Please keep in mind, that once the staining and pollutants have permeated through the original sealant finish and into the material, the remaining finish must be strongly cleaned to get to the stain. If re-sealing is done correctly, Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1 or Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 will re-establish water repellency for a minimum of two years. In order to clean the fabric correctly, you should first evaluate its condition. A medium bristled brush should be used on fabrics 2 to 4 years old with no evident deterioration. If the material has a considerable amount of light coming through it when viewed from underneath, or seems to be exceptionally dry, use your softest brush available.If there is excessive staining on the fabric, you may have to sponge and brush as much as three times on your initial cleaning. Sometimes the stain may look like its still there, but upon drying it will disappear. You will quickly get to the point where you will be able to recognize this. Remember to use Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER undiluted or diluted 1 to 1 with water on extremely dirty material. For routine maintenance, the cleaner may be diluted from 6:1 up to 10:1.
will do the job. Owing to its concentrated formula, in the event you use it undiluted (or in a concentration higher than 2:1) it is recommended that after you clean, the fabric be resealed if it is older than 3 years. Please keep in mind, that once the staining and pollutants have permeated through the original sealant finish and into the material, the remaining finish must be strongly cleaned to get to the stain. If re-sealing is done correctly, Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1 or Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 will re-establish water repellency for a minimum of two years. In order to clean the fabric correctly, you should first evaluate its condition. A medium bristled brush should be used on fabrics 2 to 4 years old with no evident deterioration. If the material has a considerable amount of light coming through it when viewed from underneath, or seems to be exceptionally dry, use your softest brush available.If there is excessive staining on the fabric, you may have to sponge and brush as much as three times on your initial cleaning. Sometimes the stain may look like its still there, but upon drying it will disappear. You will quickly get to the point where you will be able to recognize this. Remember to use Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER undiluted or diluted 1 to 1 with water on extremely dirty material. For routine maintenance, the cleaner may be diluted from 6:1 up to 10:1.Method #1
HAND SPRAY
This method should only be used on extremely dirty material that has not been cleaned for 2+ years as it may strip some of the fabric finish.
1 - Apply Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER to the fabric from a hand pump sprayer being sure to wet material thoroughly with the cleaner. Always start at the bottom and work up.
2 - Scrub cleaner into fabric with the Fixi-Clamp and sponge or a soft bristled brush.
3 - Using a water blaster or brass screw type water nozzle set for the highest pressure, thoroughly rinse material. If Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER had been applied previously and this is a routine maintenance cleaning, follow guidelines for maintenance cleaning of open weave materials. Keep in mind, stains will sometimes appear to be in the material while it is wet, but upon drying they will disappear.
Method #2
HAND SPRAY & PRESSURE RINSE
This method is the same as stated above; however, sometimes you may need extra water pressure in the rinsing to remove stains. While we do not condone the use of high pressure cleaning, in some instances, suggest a low pressure cleaning system. The specifications are as follows:
1- Pressure cleaner must have a down pressure regulator and pressure gauge.
2- Pressure must never exceed 250 p.s.i.
3- Tip must be a 40 degree fan tip.
4- During use, the wand tip must be at least 12 to 18 inches from the material.
5- Do not use this rinse method on the binding or trim as it may "fray" it.
Normal city water pressure is between 50 and 85 p.s.i. Your goal is to increase the amount of pressure by three to four times the amount that is available at the faucet. This enables you to "push" the water through the fibers to release deep set stains, etc. You must be extremely careful when doing this. If the material has stitched seams, check them on both sides. Many times the underneath will appear to have good seams, but upon cleaning, they will separate. Always check the top threads to ensure the stitching is sound. This method provides the most effective manner of cleaning mildew stains from any webbing on the fabric. Do not use a scrubber pad on open weave fabrics. Do not ever allow your pressure cleaner to go above 250 p.s.i. In many of the fabrics the total hydrostatic pressure is between 300 to 550 p.s.i. Any pressure above this may expose the material to damage.
Method #3
PRESSURE CLEANING
If you must pressure clean, and we do not recommend that you do, there is no way that you will be able to siphon the cleaner out at a low dilution factor when it is mixed with water with your machine. Accordingly you will not be cleaning the fabric; just pushing whatever you can out or off of the fibers. Do not allow your pressure cleaner to go above 250 p.s.i. In many fabrics the total hydrostatic pressure is between 300 to 550 p.s.i. and any pressure above this range may expose the material to structural damage.
NOTES & RECOMMENDATIONS - ALL METHODS
- When rinsing solution off the fabric, it will foam. Rinsing should continue until there is no foam present.
- When cleaning the underside of any material, wear safety goggles and breathing mask or be sure that wind or drippings does not get cleaner on you. If you are using a sprayer, consider getting an over- spray fitting.
- When cleaning in cold weather, use warm water when making the cleaning solution. This will aid its efficiency. Most cleaning products lose much of their cleaning potency in temperatures under 50 degrees.If you do not have access to warm water at a particular job site, consider carrying it in a thermos cooler and using it as needed. The water temperature should not be excessively hot as this could be potentially damaging to the fabric.
- You may want to carry a hand "blow" dryer to spot check the material. As stated, many times the material still looks dirty and/or appears to have stains; but upon drying it is clean. Another method is the use of wet vacuums to remove the excess water in order to assist in minimizing drying time.
STAIN PROBLEM GUIDE
"How to Clean Open Weave Cloth Awnings"
Algae & Mildew - Use STAIN MAGIC. Allow to sit for 15 minutes; rinse thoroughly. Alternatively, the addition of SAFE SCRUB to your cleaning solution will also prove an effective remedy for these type stains.
Bird Droppings - Dependent upon what the bird consumed (berry stains are usually permanent), Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER will usually take care of this problem. Allow to sit on the material for 20 minutes before rinsing.
Chewing Gum - The most effective method is to freeze the gum using a piece of dry ice and then gently scrape it off the fabric.
Clay - Clay has oils in it that will permanently stain the material. Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER
should be used undiluted and allowed to penetrate for 15 minutes. This will serve to lighten the stains. On oily clay stains, Release may assist in their lightening/removal.
Fading of Yellow - This may be an inherent problems with certain fabrics. In the event the material is less than two years old and fading excessively, there is probably no alternative but to resurface. If it is a striped pattern, it should be recovered.
Grass Stains - Grass stains can be removed entirely or lightened by the use of STAIN MAGIC as an additive to the Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER cleaning solution.
Grease & Smoke - from grills, campfires, etc. can be removed while it is still relatively fresh with Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER
Leaves - Leaves contain tannin, a staining agent that will permeate directly into the material. See recommendations for Grass Stains above.
Material Only Leaks at Certain Points - Many times the fabric will leak where it touches the framework. Some other causes include constant creasing of the material, being folded or rolled up on a regular basis, faulty seams, etc. Leaking can also occur on certain bolts of fabric where application was not true. Simply follow guidelines for the cleaning and sealing of fabric.
Moss (excessive) - Take a brush and remove as much moss as possible with dry brushing. Then apply Universal Fabric Cleaner with STAIN MAGIC mixed in to the area. Let sit and soak in. Apply more cleaner solution if area starts to dry out. Let stanf 5-10 minutes. Then bristle brush the moss area and water rinse. This procedure might have to be done mutiple times. NOTICE On older cloth awnings the moss might be the only thing holding the material together. Remove it and the awning might shred apart.
Oil - If the oil is still on the surface, spray on Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER and gently scrub with a brush.
Paint- Removal depends on the amount of paint. If it's just a few spots, you can remove it with xylene (carefully following the manufacturer's directions for use). Always spot test on an inconspicuous area first. Always remove all xylene and residue with a thorough cleaning using undiluted Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER.
Rust - If the fabric has rust on it, and the cleaner does not remove it, the stain is probably permanent. Stronger cleaning of the rust stain area may necessitate a waiver. CAUTION: The use of acids or products containing acid may cause irreparable harm to the fabric as well as colorshifts in the material.
Tree Sap - If Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER does not provide satisfactory results, use RELEASE and a soft brush on the stain area, then clean with Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER.
Yellowing on Blue & Green Fabrics - Usually the fabric can be cleaned by using a combination of Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANER and STAIN MAGIC.
Other Stains - Normally it is best to use STAIN MAGIC as an additive to the Universal FABRIC CLEANER or MAINTENANCE CLEANERcleaning solution. If the results are not satisfactory, identify the stain and follow the guidelines detailed under the Stain Removal section.
NOTE: It may be impossible to remove long term stains.
"Sealing Cloth or Canvas Awnings"
Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALERS
Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1 is a true water repellent. It makes thesurface it bonds to insoluble in water; therefore, making the fabric repel water. Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1 does not seal the fibers together. This feature allows the air to penetrate and dry the material. The fabric is allowed to "breathe". One coat of Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1 applied to clean, dry fabric may restore water repellency for up to 2 years.
Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 is used to replace the eroded and lost acrylic finish on certain open weave fabrics. By replacing this lost acrylic finish, Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 restores the missing barrier which effectively blocks water from penetrating through the fabric. The use of Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 also increases the fabric's "hand" (stiffness) and increases its strength. Because a water barrier is being applied to the fabric, the "breathability" of the fabric is lessened dramatically. When applied to clean dry fabric, Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 may help restore the finish for up to 2 years.
NOTE: Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 will not properly penetrate the fibers of fabrics that still have a high degree of water repellency.
"How to use Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1"
Method # 1
HAND SPRAYER APPLICATION
This method is extremely cost effective and is the preferred method of application.
EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
• Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1
• Pressurized hand pump sprayer.
• Rubber gloves.
• Breathing mask suitable for solvent operations.
• Plastic drop cloths - optional.
PROCEDURE
1 - Starting from the top, apply sealant to dry fabric with the sprayer using medium spray pattern. Spray the fabric until is has a "wet" look. If runoff occurs, you are wasting the sealer.
2 - Continue over the entire fabric in this manner.
3 - When spraying your sealer, be extremely careful not to spray onto windows, automobiles, vegetation, or other unwanted surfaces. We recommend that you cover these items with plastic drop cloths. Due to the fact that this is a solvent based sealer it may harm grass and vegetation. EXERCISE CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE WHEN USING!
4 - Be sure you are positioned upwind from the spray and check often to see where your over-spray is drifting. You may want to consider using an over-spray guard with the hand sprayer.
5 - Always schedule your work to allow at least two to three hours of drying time before sundown. Failure to allow adequate drying time may result in fogging or hazing of the finish caused by condensation and/or humidity changes.
6 - The sealer will fully cure within 24 hours of application depending upon humidity.
7 - Any remaining uncontaminated sealer should be returned to the original container and properly closed. The sprayer should be thoroughly cleaned; otherwise, the sealer residues will quickly deteriorate and ruin the internal parts of the spray wand.
DO NOT MIX OR DILUTE SEALER WITH WATER !
A single coating of Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1 may last up to 2 years when applied properly. One gallon of sealer provides approximately 200 to 400 sq. ft. of coverage and a single coat will normally seal the material.
Method #2
ROLLER APPLICATION
This method is extremely time consuming and should only be used as a last resort.
EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
• 5 gallon bucket or pail - Make sure it's clean and dry.
• Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #1.
• Roller sleeve - with 1" or thicker nap suitable for stains.
• Roller handle.
• Paint brush.
• Roller grid - available at paint and hardware stores.
• Rubber gloves.
• Plastic drop cloths - optional.
PROCEDURE
1 - Pour sealer into bucket. Be sure that no water comes in contact or mixes with the sealer either in the bucket or on the material.
2 - Dip your roller in the sealer, roll off excess sealer on the roller guard and apply to the fabric. Apply adequately in order to give the fabric a saturated look.
3 - When applying sealer to valances, etc. use a paint brush instead of the roller. This will help to eliminate drips.
4 - Follow the instructions, recommendations and precautions outlined above in Method #1, as appropriate.
"How to use Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3"
Method # 1
HAND SPRAYER APPLICATION
This method is extremely cost effective and is the preferred method of application.
EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
• Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3.
• Pressurized hand pump sprayer.
• Rubber gloves.
• Breathing mask suitable for mist operations.
• Plastic drop cloths - optional.
• Paint roller or brush.
PROCEDURE
1 - Starting from the top, apply sealant to clean dry fabric through the sprayer using medium spray pattern. Spray the fabric until is has a saturated look. If runoff occurs, you are wasting the sealer.
2 - Continue over the entire fabric in this manner.
3 - Do not allow the sealer to drip or pool. If this occurs, smooth it out with a roller or paint brush.
4 - When spraying your sealer, be extremely careful not to spray on windows, automobiles, vegetation, or other unwanted surfaces. We recommend that you cover these items with plastic drop cloths.
EXERCISE CAUTION AND COMMON SENSE WHEN USING!
5 - Be sure you are positioned upwind from the spray and check often to see where your over-spray is drifting. You may want to consider using an over-spray guard with the hand sprayer.
6 - Always schedule your work to allow at least two to three hours of drying time before sundown (nightfall). Failure to allow adequate drying time may result in fogging or hazing of the finish caused by nightfall condensation and/or humidity changes.
7 - The sealer will fully cure within 24 hours of application depending upon humidity.
8 - At the end of the day, any remaining sealer should be returned to the original container and properly closed. The sprayer should be thoroughly cleaned; otherwise, the sealer residues will quickly deteriorate and ruin the internal parts of the spray wand.
DO NOT MIX OR DILUTE SEALER WITH WATER !
MAKE SURE ALL CLEANER RESIDUES HAVE BEEN THOROUGHLY RINSED FROM THE FABRIC BEFORE THE
APPLICATION OF Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3!
Two coats of Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3 may restore the water repellency of the material for over 2 years when applied properly to clean, dry fabric. One gallon of sealer provides approximately 200 to 400 sq. ft. of coverage and a single coat will normally seal the material.
Method #2
ROLLER APPLICATION
This method is extremely time consuming and should only be used as a last resort.
EQUIPMENT REQUIREMENTS
• 5 gallon bucket or pail - Make sure it's clean and dry.
• Perma-Seal FABRIC SEALER #3.
• Roller sleeve - with 1" or thicker nap suitable for stains.
• Roller handle.
• Paint brush.
• Roller grid - available at paint and hardware stores.
• Rubber gloves.
• Plastic drop cloths - optional.
PROCEDURE
1 - Pour sealer in bucket. Be sure that no water comes in contact or mixes with the sealer either in the bucket or on the material.
2 - Dip your roller in the sealer, roll off excess sealer on the roller guard and apply to the fabric. Apply adequately in order to give the fabric a saturated look.
3 - When applying sealer to valances, etc. use a paint brush instead of the roller. This will help to eliminate drips.
4 - Follow the instructions, recommendations and precautions outlined above in Method #1, as appropriate.
NOTES ON THE USE OF FABRIC SEALERS:
If the fabric weave is too loose and open to the point where you can see a lot of daylight coming through, it will probably not seal properly. If you notice this condition, bring it to the attention of your customer before the work is performed. Remember that if the weave is too loose, the sealer has no way to "bridge" across the open areas. Always be sure that all cleaner residues have been removed from the fabric and that it is completely dry before sealing. This is especially true after cleaning. On smaller awnings, if possible, go to another job close by and return later to seal.
Fabric Sealers should have a minimum of two, but preferably three, hours drying time before sundown or before any rainfall. Try to time and schedule your work accordingly.
Be very careful when spraying the fabric sealer. Watch which way the wind blows, etc. to ensure you are coating only the material, and not the surroundings. On windy days, when you cannot spray, consider using Method #2.
In cold weather, sealers have a tendency to CRYSTALLIZE on the surface. Keep this in mind when planning and carrying out any searing work. It is recommended that application of any sealer take place only in temperatures above 55 degrees. You should also allow at least four hours of curing time before temperatures drop below 55 degrees.
The information contained in this technical brief is intended for use with Awning Rejuvenation Systems products. Awning Rejuvenation Systems International does not assume, and therefore disclaims, any liability to to any party for any loss or damages caused by any errors or omissions in this technical brief, whether or not such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause. This publication may not be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in whole or in part, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Awning Rejuvanition Systems International, Inc.
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